Isle of Wight 1970: The getaway
The problem with the 1970 Isle of Wight festival was how to get out of it. On the morning of Monday, August 31, exactly 55 years ago, something like 600,000 fans were going to be trying to leave the island. In all probability, the queue for the ferry from Ryde to Portsmouth was likely to resemble a less frostbitten version of Napoleon’s army retreating from Moscow.
I’d attended the festival with my friend Geoffrey Cannon, then the Guardian‘s rock critic. I was one of three Melody Maker writers on the case; the others were Chris Welch and Michael Watts. Poor Watts, a recent recruit, had been sent to a camping supplies shop on Holborn, around the corner from the office, and given enough money to equip himself with a small tent and a bedroll. His job would be to tell the story from the perspective of the kids up on the hill.
Welch and I would be taking notes in the relatively salubrious area reserved for VIPs and the press in front of the stage, revelling in the experience of seeing Miles Davis play to a crowd of more than half a million with an average age of probably 20. And there was Joni Mitchell, and the Who, and Richie Havens, and John Sebastian, and the rest of an extraordinary bill.
Geoffrey and I both had to be at our respective offices by the Monday lunchtime, and it was he who came up with a brilliant solution. He called the flying school at Portsmouth airport and asked if they had a plane that could pick us up and take us across the Solent.
The flying school could indeed meet his request, and we were invited to report at something like six o’clock in the morning, maybe a bit earlier. After leaving the festival and making it to the nearby Bembridge airfield, we sat in a hut by the grass runway, waiting for our plane to arrive.
We’d been there for a few minutes when a limousine drew up. Out of it stepped Jimi Hendrix, still wearing the flowing multicoloured silks he’d worn on stage only three or four hours earlier, giving a performance that had begun badly but eventually coalesced into something those who heard it would never forget (luckily, the whole set was filmed).
For Jimi, a helicopter was waiting. He climbed in and disappeared into the misty dawn sky. Eighteen days later, after returning to London from gigs in Denmark and West Germany, he was dead.
Shortly after his departure from Bembridge, our single-engined Cessna turned up and off we went. I expect we shared a taxi from Portsmouth to London and put it on expenses, as we did with the cost of the plane ride, which came to nine pounds and six shillings, including landing fees. The bill was made out to Geoffrey. Somehow, I’ve managed to hang on to it for the past five and a half decades.


Beautiful – one of your best. The 17 year old daughter of our neighbours across the road went to the Festival (no mean feat from the Black Country back then) with her much disapproved of boyfriend and never returned until circa 1977!
Geoffrey Cannon and your good self were the main reasons I discovered Van Morrison.
Best,Tim
Wow – what a cool story. My only connection with Hendrix is that I was born in the same hospital that he sadly died in only two weeks later. 9’6” might buy you a pint of bad lager and a packet of designer crisps at a festival these days. How things change
Brilliant recollections, not to mention initiative.
Great story. I was at the Bath festival that year, with an equally amazing line-up, and getting home to London after the Sunday night show ran well into Monday was something of a nightmare. For some reason I’d forgotten that the switch to decimal currency was 1971…
I was at Bath ’70 (ie Shepton Mallet) too (and also the previous year which although good was a smaller one-day affair and was actually in Bath itself). But Bath 70 was a monster. Not quite on the scale of IoW in terms of audience numbers, but what a list of bands!
Four of us decided to beat the Monday return mayhem by setting off around Sunday midday. That meant, of course, that we had a lengthy walk back to the ferry in the late August heat in our, then obligatory, greatcoats. By then we had not had any proper sleep, food or toilets for days. In fact the only sleep I did enjoy was for pretty much the entirety of the Doors’ performance. It did mean that we didn’t stick around for Hendrix. The closest I got the stage was for for Miles, although the wind carried the sounds off in all directions. Happy times.
I was there too. I remember queuing to get off the island. It was there I first heard the cry “Wally!” echoing from many corners of the crowd. There was quite a lot of “baaing” etc as befitted the shuffling sheep-like situation.
I went with my friend Eric and I remember he kept on falling asleep during Jimi Hendrix, who was on very late (or early).
“Wake up Eric! He’s doing Red House”
Richard, a wonderful post! So visual and evocative. I’ve read many of yours in the fifteen plus years i’ve been reading The Blue Moment. This says so much about the importance and impact of music on our lives. You captured an intangible essence through a snapshot. Thank you!
Fantastic. I was there, I was 17 so bringing down the average age. I’d hitchhiked all the way from the north of Scotland. I have a few photos of my own but nothing so historic.
https://sussexbylines.co.uk/community/culture/i-got-the-1970-isle-of-wight-festival-blues/
Thanks for the link. Mirrored many of my own recollections. I too, in similar fashion to that saying about the sixties, have hazy memories of who I actually saw and who I slept through but absolutely no recollection at all as to the journey home. I look back on those times with great fondness and it was also the beginning of my long appreciation of the writing of a certain RW.
That’s a great report James. I really enjoyed reading that. I was also at the festival and you brought back memories. It was an intense 5 days. I left on the Sunday as I felt just as whacked and weary as you did. So Missed Hendrix and Cohen. But the rest was tremendous.
That’s a quite wonderful piece, James. Thanks for sharing it.
Great post, and an unforgettable experience. Staying awake had indeed been a challenge, and Hendrix’s set was interrupted by a small fire backstage, but he cut through it all. Little did any of us know then what tragedy was just round the corner. Glad you gave a mention to John Sebastian, who did a lovely Sunday afternoon set!
Richard, I´ve been admiring you archives for long. This to me appears to be on top of all that. Cheers!
THAT is a crackin’ story. 👍👍
Bloody hell, Richard, what a beautiful story.
My holiday job that year was a bus conductor on one of the Southern Vectis buses taking the fans from Ryde to Freshwater and back.
I wanted to see Miles (In A Solent Way) but couldn’t wrangle the time off.
Like every other business, they did very well out of the ‘bloomin’ hippies’ and upped their profits, I think by 50 thousand pounds.
Didn’t Michael Watts give Jimi his last interview where he said he was aiming to take things further, bigger, in a Gil Evans sort of way? A tantalising future we never got to see.
But what an enviable archive you must have.
My first festival and like most who were there it was one I throw in as my trump card whilst reflecting on the past.
I was 16 and went with two friends, the line was just incredible; when I look back on it, who could have foreseen the deaths of Jimi H and Jim M.
I remember the reports that my mum was hearing about the water supply being laced with LSD.
Great memories and a festival far removed from the corporate and commercialisation of our modern events.
I seem to remember we set off for home pretty soon after Hendrix had played. At one point I had to give my (thankfully quite small) girlfriend a piggy back for what seemed like miles when one of her shoes fell to bits. And oh yes – the “baaing” in the queue …..
I was there too, Richard. However, my departure could not have been more different from yours. I was only 17 and my boyfriend and I had run out of money over the weekend. I think we had enough to pay for petrol to get home in his car (hilariously a three-wheeled Robin Reliant) or pay for the ferry, but not both. So we opted to stay on site for a day or two collecting rubbish – it really was The Who’s Teenage Wasteland – to make some cash. I can’t remember what they paid us, I’d guess maybe a shilling or sixpence a bag. Or maybe even less. Puts your £9 flight into context – that was probably more than a week’s wages for me back then. x
‘Poor Watts’, indeed. Seemingly the entire population of ‘Desolation Row’, a hippie version of ‘Henman Hill’ or ‘Murray Mound’, had a shit in my tent while I was busily reviewing the artistes. I retired for the night in what had effectively become a latrine. And now I find that you made your escape from that wretched island on a fucking plane! I shall never forget this, Williams. MW
You certainly conveyed your displeasure, both before (when it was mooted at the editorial meeting that you spend the weekend in a tent) and after the event (when you returned to the office in a foul mood). Great story RW, CC
I too was at that festival, although I was obliged to find my way back with my mate Pete on foot. We had to trudge all the way back to catch the ferry, high on adrenaline from 2 days of music and of course seeing Hendrix. Not to mention the stunningly beautiful woman lying next to me in a crocheted bikin which left nothing to the imagination. She had been at the famous 1969 Woodstock the year before and I was enraptured by her and her recollections It wasn’t until some time later that Pete advised me his uncle ran the local bus services! I was stupefied as to why we had had to walk? Some months later, I was returning home on the underground at Highbury Islington when I heard Hendrix was dead. It was a pivotal moment, the earth moved for me, a moment in time I shall never forget. I wandered around in a trance of disbelief for many years and even to this day.
What a story, thanks. If only we could go back to those halcyon times when anything and everything was possible.
Demetri
Highlights for me at that festival were Miles Davis, Mighty Baby and the Doors.
Hi Richard.
How did you get to Bembridge? The Queues were horrendous?
When I was 17, I left home telling my parents that I was going on holiday with a friend, hitchhiked down to London and then to the Isle of Wight festival. My hero Jimi Hendrix was playing.
It was not a festival of love, there was tension between a belief that music should be free and the needs of the organisers to pay their way. Fences were ripped down as 600,000 people descended onto that small island. The crowd were unruly and needed strong music. Kris Kristofferson was booed off the stage, and he wasn’t the only one. People were impatient, angry, needing to find something which was not offered. LSD was free, laced into the orange juice, little coloured pills given around like sweets. The music held us.
On the last night, Hendrix came to the stage and set it on fire. The piano was burning and had been pushed back onto the stage. Firefighters climbed up from the crowd but Hendrix took no notice, the music that came from his guitar firing the crowd to heights of excitement and frenzy. We didn’t know it at the time but he had only 18 more days to live.
When he left the stage, we waited and waited. The last act was Leonard Cohen and he didn’t come. Two hours went by. It was already the early hours of the morning as discontent spread through the air through the crowd, muttering. Joan Baez tried to calm it down, her music more difficult to set fire to, but failed.
When Leonard finally arrived on the stage it was four in the morning, the end of an era. He brought transformation: the Summers of Love remembered and mourned. Leonard came strong of back and soft of heart, gentle, his words and songs a balm, his poetry entrancing . We sat quietly listening in awe of this angel from heaven who had come with such peace in his heart, with an openness that spoke to everyone in that vast mass of people; spoke to each of us as if we were sitting in his living room having a cup of tea. It was a miracle. Leonard played the concert of his life, the concert of my life. The memory of it 55 years later takes me back into that sacred space created by his love for us all and brings tears of joy to my eyes as I sing his songs with my memory.
seeing Jim Morrison only two years removed from his sex symbol image really shows you the effects of the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle and heavy drinking from a rock God to a bloated bearded, seemingly aged older man…sad decline
Excellent tale – the scenario at the airfield somehow reminds me of an Antonioni film -possibly L’Eclisse.. Anyway I was at the festival and can remember only a few performances- one of which was Sly and the Family Stone at 6.30 am on Sunday morning – or was it a dream ?
What a great story and yes, Hendrix was eventually transformative that night, contrary to the negative mutterings over the years!
Do you keep a scrapbook for such items, Richard?
Gutted to have missed the Louis Moholo tribute show with a horrible cold. Sounded thrilling.
Best wishes,
Mark
I know it’s only rock & roll, but I like it.
Thanks for the lovely anecdotes. (And the priceless ripostes from Melody maker staff, 55 years later!)
For me, it was hearing John Sebastian and Joni Mitchell. Not forgetting the mass skinny-dipping in Freshwater bay to cool off , all faithfully photographed by the Daily Sketch I believe.
what wonderful memories!