The sound of style
John Simons, who turns 85 this Friday, remembers being 17 years old in 1956 and going to see Stan Kenton at the Albert Hall. He remembers the tall, imposing figure of the bandleader, and the thrilling sound of the music, one piece in particular: “‘Concerto to End All Concertos’!”
He also remembers that one of the band’s musicians had been sent home before they’d played a note on the hugely successful 53-date UK tour. It was the tenor saxophonist Spencer Sinatra, who’d been caught trying to score drugs soon after their arrival in London. Kenton packed him straight off back to the USA, along with his apparently blameless roommate, the baritone player Jack Nimitz. Simons claims that his memory for names isn’t so good any more, but he remembers the British replacements who were called in: Don Rendell and Harry Klein.
Perhaps less surprisingly, he also remembers how beautifully dressed the musicians were and the item of clothing he himself bought for the occasion: “It was a trenchcoat. Six guineas from Millet’s.” For John Simons, jazz and fashion have always been woven together.
A decent clothes shop that plays good music adds something to one of life’s pleasures. In Simons’ shop on Chiltern Street in Marylebone, the music is always good because it’s going to be something that refers in some way to the modern jazz on which the proprietor got seriously hooked as a young man in the 1950s. He’s not in the shop very often these days. His sons run it now, but they keep it on the Ivy League path he and his early partners established many years ago: button-down shirts, loafers, nice raincoats, soft-shouldered corduroy jackets, knitted ties. And the music, of course.
He was born into a tailoring family in 1939 and left school to study shop design and window dressing at St Martin’s School of Art. He was working at Cecil Gee in Shaftesbury Avenue when he was offered a job with Hope Brothers, whose stores included Burberry’s on Regent Street. Before long he and a friend started a business of their own, with a stall off Petticoat Lane and then a little shop called Clothesville next to Hackney Empire. He could design something, send it over to a tailor, and expect to have it back for sale the next day.
In the summer of 1964 he opened the Ivy Shop in Richmond, two doors up from L’Auberge, the café where the mod fans of the Stones and the Yardbirds would meet. His next venture was the Squire on Brewer Street in Soho. Then came the Village Gate, with branches on the King’s Road and Old Compton Street, named after the celebrated Greenwich Village jazz club, which he’d visited on a trip to New York. “I wrote to the owner of the Village Gate, Art D’Lugoff, for permission. He said, ‘As long as it’s not a jazz club, be my guest.'”
At the start of the 1980s he started a shop called J. Simons in Covent Garden, which became a haven for those to whom, in the words of Robert Elms, the classic modernist wardrobe represents “the only youth culture uniform that doesn’t look ridiculous in retrospect.” When the lease ran out he looked around before, in 2011, opening the current shop in a district which, as with Covent Garden, he has played a part in reshaping.
When I asked him to name some musicians whose work he really loves, he mentioned the Clifford Brown-Max Roach quintet, Chet Baker’s singing, the MJQ and Billie Holiday. And Thelonious Monk. “At the youth club I went to,” he said, “people danced to Monk. Can you believe that?”







